Abbreviations & Helpful links
Standard abbreviations
approx: approximately
beg: begin(ning); begins(s)
BO: bind off
BOR: beginning of rnd
CO: cast on
CC: contrasting color
circ: circular needle
cm: centimeter(s)
cn: cable needle
cont: continue(s); continuing
dec('d): decrease(d)
dpn(s): double-pointed needle(s)
est: establish(ed)
g: gram(s)
inc('d): increase(d)
k: knit
LH: left hand
MC: main color
meas: measures
mm: millimeter(s)
m: marker
p: purl
patt(s): pattern(s)
pc(s): pieces
pm: place marker
psso: pass slipped stitch(es) over
rem: remain(s); remain(ing)
rep: repeat(ing)
RH: right hand
rib: ribbing
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side
sl: slip
sl m: slip marker
st(s): stitch(es)
St st: stockinette stitch
tbl: through the back loop
tog: together
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front
yd: yard(s)
Common increases
k1-f/b (knit 1, front and back): Knit into the front loop, then the back loop of next stitch (1 stitch increased).
k1/L (left lifted increase): Pick up the left leg of the stitch two rows/rnds below the stitch just worked on RH needle and knit it (1 stitch increased).
k1/R (right lifted increase): Pick up the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on LH needle and knit it, then knit the next stitch (1 stitch increased).
m1 (make 1): Insert LH needle from front to back under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch, knit lifted strand through the back loop (1 stitch increased).
M1L (make 1 left slanting): Same as m1.
M1R (make 1 right slanting): Insert LH needle from back to front under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch, knit lifted strand through the front loop (1 stitch increased).
m1-p (make 1 purlwise): Insert LH needle from front to back under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch, purl lifted strand through the back loop (1 stitch increased).
m1-p/L(make 1 purlwise left slanting): Same as m-1-p.
m1-p/R (make 1 purlwise right slanting): Insert LH needle from back to front under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch, purl lifted strand through the front loop (1 stitch increased).
p1-f/b (purl 1, front and back): Purl into the front loop, then the back loop of next stitch (1 stitch increased).
p1/L (left lifted increase): Pick up the left leg of the stitch two rows/rnds below the stitch just worked on your RH needle and purl (1 stitch increased, leans to the right on knit side).
p1/R (right lifted increase): Pick up the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on LH needle and purl it, then purl the next stitch (1 stitch increased, leans to the left on knit side).
yo (yarn over):
Between 2 knit stitches: Bring yarn between needles to the front, then over RH needle ready to knit the next stitch.
Between a knit and a purl stitch: Bring yarn between needles to the front, over RH needle, then between needles to front again, ready to purl the next stitch.
Between 2 purl stitches: Bring yarn over RH needle, then between needles to the front, ready to purl the next stitch.
Between a purl and a knit stitch: Bring yarn over the RH needle, ready to knit the next stitch.
yo inc (yarn over increase): Bring yarn over needle, making a new stitch. On the next row or round, work the yarn over through the back loop (1 stitch increased).
Common decreases
k2tog: Knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased, leans to the right).
k2tog-tbl: Knit 2 stitches together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased).
k3tog: Knit 3 stitches together (2 stitches decreased, leans to the right).
s2kp (central double decrease): Slip 2 stitches tog knitwise to the RH needle, k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over knit stitch (2 stitches decreased).
sk2p: Slip 1 stitch knitwise to RH needle, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over stitch created by k2tog (2 stitches decreased, leans to the left).
skp: Slip 1 stitch knitwise to RH needle, k1, pass slipped stitch over (1 stitch decreased).
spp: Slip 1 stitch knitwise to RH needle, p1, pass slipped stitch over (1 stitch decreased).
ssk (slip, slip, knit): Slip 2 stitches one at a time knitwise to the RH needle; return stitches to LH needle in turned position and knit them together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased, leans to the left).
ssp (slip, slip, purl): Slip 2 stitches one at a time knitwise to the RH needle; return stitches to LH needle in turned position and purl them together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased).
sssk (slip, slip, slip, knit): Slip 3 stitches one at a time knitwise to the RH needle; return stitches to LH needle in turned position and knit them together through the back loops (2 stitches decreased, leans to the left).
p2tog: Purl 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased).
p2tog-tbl: Purl 2 stitches together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased).
p3tog: Purl 3 stitches together (2 stitches decreased).
Common miscellaneous abbreviations
k1rb: Knit the next stitch in the row below.
k1-tbl: Knit 1 stitch through the back loop to twist stitch.
p1rb: Purl the next stitch in the row below.
p1-tbl: Purl 1 stitch through the back loop to twist stitch.
Short rows
w&t (wrap and turn)
(RS) Slip next stitch to the RH needle and bring yarn between needles to the front of work. Return slipped stitch to the LH needle. Turn work and bring yarn between needles to front, ready to work next WS row.
(WS) Slip next stitch to the RH needle and bring yarn between needles to the back of the work. Return slipped stitch to the LH needle. Turn work and bring yarn between needles to back, ready to work next RS row.
(In garter stitch) Slip next stitch to the RH needle and bring yarn between needles to the front of work. Return slipped stitch to the LH needle. Turn work and leave yarn in back, ready to knit the next row.
Picking up wraps
(RS) Insert the right needle tip into the wrap from below, front to back, then into the stitch that it wraps, and knit the two together, making sure that the wrap falls to the purl side of work.
(WS) Insert the right needle tip into the wrap from below, back to front, lifting it over the wrapped stitch, and purl the two together, making sure that the wrap falls to the purl side of the work.
Brioche abbreviations
brk (brioche knit): Knit the next stitch together with its yo.
br-k3tog (brioche knit three together): Knit next 3 stitches together, along with corresponding yarn overs (2 stitches decreased, slants to the right).
brp (brioche purl): Purl the next st together with its yo.
br-sssk (brioche slip, slip, slip, knit): Slip the next 3 stitches, along with corresponding yarn overs, one at a time knitwise to the RH needle; return stitches to LH needle in turned position and knit them together through the back loops (2 stitches decreased, slants to the left).
sl1yo (slip 1 yarn over):
Before a brk (or a knit stitch): Bring the yarn to the front, between the needles, then slip the next stitch purlwise. Bring the yarn over the needle, to the back, ready to knit the next stitch (creates a yarn over traveling over a slipped stitch).
Before a brp (or a purl stitch): With the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise. Bring the yarn over the needle, to the back, then between the needles to the front, ready to purl the next stitch (creates a yarn over traveling over a slipped stitch).
Helpful links
Jeny’s suprisingly stretchy bind off
making a pom pom:
3 comments
I am working on the Finna Shawl pattern, and in the garter stitch section, it references using k1/L and k1/R stitches. The descriptions here only apply to stockinette stitch. In the garter stitch section, the purl bumps are on the working side. Do you treat it this way?
k1/L (left lifted increase): Pick up the purl bump of the stitch two rows/rnds below the stitch just worked on RH needle and knit it (1 stitch increased).
k1/R (right lifted increase): Pick up the purl bump of the stitch below the next stitch on LH needle and knit it, then knit the next stitch (1 stitch increased).
I’d appreciate clarification! Thanks!
Hi Anne,
The body of the Calamus pullover pattern is worked in reverse stockinette stitch, which means the purl side of the fabric is what you see on the RS. When worked in the round, reverse stockinette stitch is made by purling every stitch on every round. Since many knitters find knitting to be faster and more comfortable than purling, the pattern has been written so that the body is worked inside (WS) out – that means you’ll mostly be making knit stitches (as for ‘regular’ stockinette stitch), then when you turn the piece RS out, the purl side will be showing. You won’t need to do anything special or different as far as following the pattern goes – just follow the instructions as written.
If you run into any other questions on the pattern as you’re knitting, please send us an email at info [at] quinceandco.com
I just got the Calamus pattern and it says it is worked WS out “to prevent purling.” What does that mean?
